Blake vs. Goodyear vs. Stitchdown

Ever wondered what actually separates a great pair of boots from an average one? It often comes down to construction. Below, we break down three of the most respected methods in footwear-making — Blake, Goodyear, and Stitchdown — and explain why every pair of TAFT boots and shoes is built using Blake stitch construction.

A Solid Foundation

Shoe construction is the backbone of quality footwear — it determines comfort, durability, water resistance, and how a shoe wears in over time. There are a few respected methods used across the footwear industry, each with its own strengths. At TAFT, we've built our entire collection on Blake stitch construction — our baseline for comfortable, long-wearing, high-quality boots and shoes.

What is Blake stitch construction?

Right now, every pair of TAFT boots and shoes is handcrafted using Blake stitch construction — the method we've found strikes the best balance of comfort, style, and long-term durability for the way our customers actually wear their shoes. Goodyear and Stitchdown remain methods we deeply respect, and ones you may see us explore again in future collections.

Blake

Styles: The Jack, Rome Boot

• - Our baseline in quality construction
• - Flexible sole; less break-in period
• - Lightweight build
• - Sleek and stylish silhouette
• - Low water resistance
• - Resoleable

Goodyear Welt

Goodyear welt construction is a traditional technique known for its durability and substantial feel. A welt strip joins the upper to the sole, creating a boot with more heft — closer to what you'd picture in a combat or work boot — and typically higher water resistance than a Blake-stitched shoe.

• - Dense, cork-filled midsole that conforms to your foot over time
• - Mid-weight, more substantial build
• - Durable silhouette with heft
• - Highly water resistant
• - Resoleable

Stitchdown

Stitchdown is one of the oldest construction methods in footwear, prized for its rugged look and toughness. The upper is stitched directly down into the outsole, creating natural water resistance and a boot that only gets better with wear.

• - Our most rugged, hard-wearing construction style
• - Thick leather midsole that takes time to break in
• - Heaviest, most substantial build
• - Tough, rugged silhouette that looks better with wear
• - Most water resistance
• - Resoleable

Go beyond the bold.

Discover our current Blake-stitched styles.